I am leaving Buenos Aires still confused about it. I loved it, I would like to come back. The prevalence of the tango stuff really surprised me. The complete lack of historical tours was a grave disappointment. I spent all of the 29th looking for a tour similar to what I did in Santiago, to no avail.
I spent some time on Florida Street getting solicited for more tango tours and walked to the Casa Rosada again. But it was fenced and I couldn’t get in. The next day when my group arrived I learned that the Casa Rosada was open to the public on weekends so we went to the Bicentennial celebration.
This is me and some Argentine guards at the Casa Rosada.
There was a gallery of Latin American heroes on the ground floor of the Casa Rosada. Portraits of Allende and Zapata were there. Although there was clearly a place for Eva Perón’s portrait, it was missing?! I tried to find someone to ask about it but it was too crowded.
We took the metro to the Museo Evita. I know that it is run by her family and it was okay. Interestingly, there was a part about Eva Perón’s brother that described his death as a “mystery” and not a suicide. I have ever heard his death referred to as anything other than a suicide.
Eva Perón is so confusing to me. I never know what is fact or fiction regarding her life, all of the conflicting stories are difficult to sort out. Also, since most of my fellow travelers were completely unfamiliar with Evita (with the exception of the Madonna movie) I ended up playing the tour guide again. Unfortunately, all the questions I had remained unanswered.
I was unable to arrange a trip to ESMA because they are closed to the public, according to the touring companies. I sent them an email as well, but they never responded. I did drive by the memorial under the freeway, but I found it disappointing and a little disrespectful, even.
I visited the CGT building, Eva’s old apartment on Riobamba and Ricoletta. The disappointment was that I didn’t find any knowledgable locals that could answer historical questions for me.
Ricoletta Cemetery was okay and I visited Evita’s grave. But I felt that Santiago’s cemetery was much more impressive.